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Moving from Position One to Position Two “Elbow is the hinge of the door Joe talks about”

Below is an email from a JNGS follower. My comments are in bold and italic.

Hi Dan,

I’ve finally been able to put in some practice time on the range and have played a couple of times. My question is going from GOM to full swing speed-

  • The top of the back swing is position two. This is where the forearm folds from position one into the right shoulder. It’s very important that you use only your right elbow to travel around your waistline to the 7:30 position then the elbow reacts as a hinge and the forearm folds right into the bicep, The perfect back swing is when the upper forearm (close to the elbow) touches or squeezes against the bicep.

how do I know I have completed the back swing? Right now going by feel; any tips?

  • This cannot be done with a lift or lower body rotation so keep the back swing flat and don’t move your lower body when doing this.
  • When you can make it to this position and can control it then the next step can be taken.
    • This step is at the top of the fold the right shoulder pushes up forcing the left shoulder down. Trying to do this without getting to position two first will, most likely, result in the elbow lifting away from the waist or rib cage.
    • One way of working on this is to use the “Flat Top Table” GOM Gramps teaches. Before you hit a ball do this with a full club. The hands are cupped, the club head is as high as a table top and the right arm moves to position one and then two. Keep doing this to keep your swing compact and don’t keep your swing to flat, the left shoulder must always be below the right at position two.

Results have been great- I am not hitting or pulling left anymore.

Also- how do we change trajectory when needed?

  • This swing is not a swing that is changed to work the ball, otherwise it cannot be universal. The best I can do is relay to you what my Grandfather had to say about this issue way back in 1982.
    • If you want the ball to go left then hood (turn the blade in) the blade more and if you want the ball to go right then open the clubface (turn open using the shaft) but do not change the swing.
    • As far as trajectory is concerned his response would be to use a longer blade, choke up a bit, and swing at a lower speed. There are 5 swing speeds in the JNGS and I’m assuming you’re talking about a lower trajectory due to wind or terrain so this is the best answer I can give. You can always play a punch shot, as you know, by moving the ball farther to the right foot and working in.
  • This is a good time to bring up the “Worm Burner”
    • When you miss a shot, most of the misses with the Driver should go to the right and sometimes a mistake happens and you end up in the middle of the trees and there is no straight shot to the green and it seems the only play is a chip to the fairway. A long time ago I worked on the 150-175 yard slice using the Driver. The ball sometimes just rolls on the ground for 125-150 yards and sometimes when performed really good the ball will rise a few feet off the ground and bend right.
      • You have to open the club face 20-30 degrees and aim to the opening in the fairway. The more open the face the more the ball will slice or bend around. It will feel awkward and insecure so you’ll need to practice this a lot because it’s a “Get out of Jail Free” card when in trouble This is not a full swing it’s a three quarter swing and don’t hit so far down that you take a divot as the object is to move the ball forward using a controlled slice curve with the Driver off the fairway.
    • Put away one of your clubs and go out and purchase a left handed 7 iron.
      • Start to learn how to swing left handed just for those “get out of jail” shots. We all get into positions where we wish we had a left handed club due to the ball placement. This kind of trouble, if not handled correctly can turn a par into a 7 or 8. I like the 7 because this is an escape shot and the 7 is a great club for this, the blade can be opened or closed for loft.

Lastly- do I need special lie angle if I get new clubs?

  • 2.5 to 3.0 degree flat on the hosel. You’ll notice that the club face has the toe up due to the hands are concave in, so flattening out the hosel will keep the clubface square. When you go to the golf shot have them do this on one club and start at 2.5 degrees then just place the club on the ground with your grip and stance and look at the toe. If the heel is up, then your hands are too high, if the toe is up then make another slight adjustment.
  • My clubs are 2.5 degrees flat and the toe is still slightly in the air but I use 5,7, and 9 woods now and wedges to 7 so it’s not much of an issue.

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